Jean Després – The Modern Maker Who Flew Before He Forged

When designing my North by East collection—my first full range of men’s jewellery—I kept circling back to one word: strength. Not the clunky kind, but a quiet, deliberate strength found in craftswomanship, simplicity, and purpose. That’s what led me to the work of Jean Després – he was a French modernist jeweller who turned his aviation experience into beautifully bold jewellery designs.

✈️ A Life Shaped by the Sky

Born in 1889, Jean Després started his career not at a jeweller’s bench, but in a workshop designing airplane engines during the First World War. The sharp angles, exposed mechanics, and functional elegance of aviation design left a lasting mark on his imagination. I feel the same way looking at the different parts of a clock, all those sharp angles and all the cogs fascinate me.

After the war, he returned to jewellery-making, he opened a workshop in Avallon, Burgundy, and over time became known for pieces that fused the mechanics which fascinated him with with streamlined, sculptural beauty. He wasn’t based in Paris, but that didn’t stop the world from taking notice. Després' work was worn by the likes of Colette, Pablo Picasso, and Paul Signac, and he exhibited internationally throughout the 1920s and 30s. Its one of my favourite eras for their sense of adventure with their jewellery.

🔧 Jewellery That Speaks in Shapes

Després’ pieces have a kind of bold whisper to them. There’s nothing decorative for the sake of it—everything is shaped with purpose. His silver torque necklaces curve like aeroplane wings. His cufflinks and cigarette cases are inspired by the parts of planes and his silver brooches, often made from layered discs, feel like frozen turbines.

He didn't stop with jewellery though, he also designed teapots, trays and cocktail shakers—his signature style appearing across objects for daily life, not just decorative but practical too. Després preferred silver to gold, favouring its coolness and modern character.

🌍 Why It Matters Now

What I love about his work is that it was never about fashion—it was about form. Després wasn’t designing for showy status; he was creating for people who appreciated balance, structure, and craft. His jewellery is so impressive because it blurs the line between function and art, between wearability and sculpture.

That idea is woven into my own North by East collection. I wanted to create pieces that felt grounded, solid, and lasting. Jewellery for men that doesn't shout but has a quiet confidence—a kind of strength by design.

As I shaped the North by East Cuff, or adjusted the angles of the as yet unnamed GPS pendant. I thought of Despres' approach: let the materials speak, let the form do the storytelling.

🔗 Inspired by Jean Després

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Here are a few pieces by Després that I think capture his spirit beautifully, please do go and have a look for others and let me know what you think.

Jean Després: Propeller Brooch
One of his most recognisable motifs—a brooch shaped like a stylised aeroplane propeller, with a geometric edge. A miniature celebration of flight.
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Jean Després: Silver Cufflinks
Minimalist, sturdy, and often engraved with precise lines or dot details. Cufflinks with character—not flashy, just quietly assured.
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Jean Després may have started with machines, but what he created was so human. Honest materials. Clear intention. Beautiful, lasting design. And I think that's something worth celebrating.

I've added something else to my  North by East collection, you can find it all here on my website by clicking on the collection on the top tab.